Light-skinned-ed Girl

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Lima

The day's highlights: Bought two alpaca sweaters on SALE; Visited Museo Larco and saw the erotic pottery; And right now: Watching the sun set over the ocean.

Light-skinned-ed Girl Eats Guinea Pig

It was fried -- tasted kind of like chicken nuggets. Nuff said.

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Peru--Is this just a travelogue in a land of Mestizos?

Day 9 on the road: I have been trying to soak up experiences/sensations; change my paradigm if you will: does everything have to be about race and/or biracial and bicultural identity?  Well, no, but I do--despite myself--seem to get around to exploring how it plays out in my daily life.

Today, we became the cultural curiousity at the ruins of Pisac outside of Cusco.  There was a group of school children (ages 7-11 approx.) from the countryside touring the site at the same time.  I think we were the first real live black people they had seen.  (It may also have been my wild, curly hair.)  The stares were polite, but unmistakable.

At lunch, I asked the tour guide, "Danny", about what kind of news about the U.S. elections they heard in Peru.  He had the basics of the two party's differences down.  When I asked whether Peruvians (yes, I asked him to speak for the whole country) had any feeling about the idea that the U.S. might have a black/biracial president.  "We are not like you," he said.  "We don't think of that."

From the tour book, I learned that close to 40 percent of Peru's population is mestizo.  When I asked Danny, what percentage, he said: "We are all mestizo." 

"Like me," I said.  Danny chuckled politely.  Nothing else was said.

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Peru--Still?

Yup.  And running out of steam.  After Monday's 3 and 1/2 hour hike up and down around Huayna Picchu, yesterday's 2-hour hike to the Sun Gate at Macchu Picchu, and today's four-hour walk up and then down the ruins of Cusco, I have a pronounced George Jefferson walk.  My quads have not been this sore since running a marathon --and the walk is not cute.  Up, strangely, is easy--down, makes me wince.  Okay, so enough whining.  Obviously there are worse troubles to have, but I get grumpy when I can't walk right.

I'm pulling it together and look forward to tonight: dinner at Pancha Papa;  and then tomorrow a tour of the sites outside of Cusco and a trip to the Pisac market.   

 

 

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Peru -- A Few Photos

 

 

 

 

 

Light-skinned-ed Girl Scales the Heights at Macchu Picchu

Had an amazing hike today up the peak that looks onto Macchu Picchu. Three and a half hours later we along with the wonderful O'Donnell family who adopted us had seen the incredible views and had a hearty workout. Still internet challenged--hope to share photos soon.

Light-skinned-ed Girl at Macchu Picchu

You can follow me on twitter and get better updates. Still internet challenged. Highlights: Macchu Picchu today! What more can I say? Photos soon!

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Cusco, Peru

Again a quick post and another day of travel. Started at 4:30am leaving Arequipa hotel. Flew to Lima and then Cusco --that's the only way you can do it. Arrived at the Cusco hotel at about 12:30. We set off for lunch and found a great place called Incanto where I had peppers stuffed with quinoa and prosciutto over a bed of lettuce. Delicious. We wandered the main square and some side streets. Cusco is a tourist town. There are beautiful buildings and a fine view, but it's mostly made up of stall-like stores --everyone selling the same things: ponchos, tshirts with llamas and alpacas, yes, all things alpaca: sweaters, scarves, etc. Lots of folks hawking things on the street: jewelry, artwork, tamales. And then the girls and women --almost one on every corner asking for one soles (about 35 cents)--the charge to take a photo with them and their llama. I can't say that I like Cusco--there is so much tourist hustle and it's dispiriting to see the dreams of people pinned on selling this awful stuff to visitors. Cusco is only a transition point for most anyway--just like for us--we head to Macchu Picchu on an early train for a two-night stay. Photos to come soon with full internet connectivity, I hope.

Light-skinned-ed Girl in Cusco, Peru

Again a quick post and another day of travel. Started at 4:30am leaving Arequipa hotel. Flew to Lima and then Cusco --that's the only way you can do it. Arrived at the Cusco hotel at about 12:30. We set off for lunch and found a great place called Incanto where I had peppers stuffed with quinoa and prosciutto over a bed of lettuce. Delicious. We wandered the main square and some side streets. Cusco is a tourist town. There are beautiful buildings and a fine view, but it's mostly made up of stall-like stores --everyone selling the same things: ponchos, tshirts with llamas and alpacas, yes, all things alpaca: sweaters, scarves, etc. Lots of folks hawking things on the street: jewelry, artwork, tamales. And then the girls and women --almost one on every corner asking for one soles (about 35 cents)--the charge to take a photo with them and their llama. I can't say that I like Cusco--there is so much tourist hustle and it's dispiriting to see the dreams of people pinned on selling this awful stuff to visitors. Cusco is only a transition point for most anyway--just like for us--we head to Macchu Picchu on an early train for a two-night stay. Photos to come soon with full internet connectivity, I hope.

Light-skinned-ed Girl from Colca to Arequipa, Peru

Only highlights because I am blogging from my blackberry: 1. Fed baby alpaca breakfast--I love me some alpacas (not for eating) 2. Made a wish with stone tower at highest point--some 6000+ meters--with stone tower 3. Saw real live free-range vicunas (these guys are even softer than baby alpaca cousins) 4. Did not get altitude sickness today 5. Toured monasterio in Arequipa and learned about Saint Ana 6. Saw mummy Juanita who's a well-preserved 500 7. Going to enjoy a pisco sour now and a meal Tomorrow we're on the plane again to Cusco via Lima. More photos once I have internet again.