Yesterday our spirits were buoyed by the ease of checking in at the Lima airport, and the stunning canyon views as we descended to Arequipa. We were still happy when we realized our bags had made it with us and there would be sun for at least part of the three-hour drive to Colca Canyon. Alas, the driver who was supposed to pick us up was nowhere to be found. Without working cellphones, and also without the hotel's local number, we didn't know what to do. A kind woman from the local tourist office helped us out. After a few phone calls, and a two-hour wait, the driver arrived to take us to Colca. This being one of those fortunately-unfortunately stories, it was time for an unfortunately--that unfortunate thing was the sudden onset of the soroche, altitude sickness. See, we were headed to the canyon, but that meant we had to climb the mountain first to get to the other side. I really didn't think it would be a problem--though if something has a name, it is probably something that really does happen to lots of people. It came upon me quite suddenly. After two hours on the road, I felt car sick, but then the heat rose up to my head, everything kind of got fuzzy, and darker than it even was. It was weird to feel like I was going to faint when I was seated. But I rolled down the window and focused on breathing and my new mantra: I am still conscious. Whew. I continued to be!
Can I tell you that once we arrived and saw the hotel grounds it was entirely worth it? The hotel is made up of several little amazing casitas perfectly decorated and with warm water bottles dressed as alpacas heating our pillows for bedtime. Then there was dinner--so much food that I am embarassed to actually list it at all here --one hint: quinoa! Yes, quinoa mousse, quinoa brulee, and quinoa covered ice-cream.
We got up and took a tour of the Colca Canyon. The Condor Crossing (mobbed with tourists) still delighted. At one point, it seemed like the three condors soaring above were about to swoop down close enough to capture a small person. (I made sure to stand by people smaller than me.) They (the condors) were beautiful.
Lunch back at the hotel--traditional Peruvian food and a beer--that led to a nap. And then the best part of the trip so far: bottle-feeding the baby alpacas. Okay, maybe cheesy, but highly satisfying. Tomorrow it is back to Arequipa for the night, but really I wish I didn't have to leave here.
